THE BARLEY MOW at Clifton Hampden

The date 1352 is inscribed over the low doorway.

1910: Barley Mow in Thames Valley Villages by Charles G Harper

The Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden
The Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden.

Sheila Llewellyn, The View from the Bridge -

The original Barley Mow was half timbered, of cruck construction, with a thatched roof, made of wych-elm supported by eight vast timbers. The oak panelling inside is at least 400 years old.

1873: Advertisement -

Advert for Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden
1873 Advertisement

1877: The Barley Mow, Henry Taunt -

The Barley Mow, Henry Taunt, 1877
The Barley Mow, Henry Taunt, 1877 (Timbers white-washed)
© Oxfordshire County Council Photographic Archive; HT2048

1884: The Upper Thames, Harpers New Monthly Magazine -

We know that ... there is for the end of our journey pleasant quarters at the “Barley Mow”.
It was Sunday evening when we took up our quarters for the night at this quaint little tavern, with its thatched roof and clean sanded floor.
The villagers had been to church. Some of them were walking homeward, prayer-books in hands; others were assembled on the benches outside the inn, engaged in local gossip and cracking rustic jokes. The scene had a pastoral look, with which the old gabled cottage and the broad gentle river were in poetic harmony.
The weather on the morrow, and its suitability for fishing, and a recent boatrace, appeared to be the chief topics of conversation; but as we strolled through the village some of the good folk were discussing the sermon in a friendly kind of way.
It is a village outside the world, linked only with distant cities by the silent river - a village where, in comparison with life in London, a day might seem a month.

1885: Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames -

On the Berkshire side, two or three minutes walk from the bridge is the "Barley Mow", one of the thatched, sile built, old-fashioned resting-places which have been almost improved out of existence by the modern system of hotels. The parlour of the "Barley Mow" is a queer panelled room, more like the cabin of a ship than the coffee-room of an inn, and is of so low a pitch as to still further favour the illusion. But although the house is primitive, and the entertainment unpretending, it is a capital little inn of its class, and may be recommended to boating men.

1885: The Royal River –

One of the most charming “bits” at Clifton has neither been sketched often nor described quite so often as it deserves to have been.
The “Barley Mow” is assuredly the oddest and quaintest of inns on the river.  It lies on the Berkshire bank, in a little roadside corner all to itself.  What its age may be it would be difficult to tell; but its high, overhanging roof is thatched and its walls are half-timbered.  The diminutive casements, about the size of the door of a rabbit-hutch, admit just enough of light to heighten the interior effect.  Broad masses of light are out of place within such venerable walls. 
The brick-floored kitchen – or maybe it is the parlour – is delightfully snug; the walls panelled darkly all round; the honest raftered ceiling is so low as to do away with the necessity ever to stand upon the naked wooden settles to reach things; the fireplace extending across one whole side of the room, the oddest imaginable cross between an old-fashioned ingle-nook open grate and a modern kitchen range; the chimney piece garnished with many a brightly-burnished pot and pan.
No demure Phyllis makes her appearance; but the cider – we are in a great cider country – is nectar.
At the back of the inn is just such a queer little garden as Dickens loved to write about.  All the flowers were our great-grandmother’s, and indeed modern daintinesses would sadly mar the antiquated aspect of this typical roadside inn of a day that is long past.

1889:  Jerome K Jerome -

Round Clifton Hampden, itself a wonderfully pretty village, old-fashioned, peaceful, and dainty with flowers, the river scenery is rich and beautiful.
If you stay the night on land at Clifton, you cannot do better than put up at the "Barley Mow."  It is, without exception, I should say, the quaintest, most old-world inn up the river.  It stands on the right of the bridge, quite away from the village.  Its low-pitched gables and thatched roof and latticed windows give it quite a story-book appearance, while inside it is even still more once-upon-a-timeyfied…

1890: The Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden, Francis Frith -

1890:  The Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden, Francis Frith
1890:  The Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden, Francis Frith

1901: The Barley Mow, Henry Taunt -

Barley Mow, Henry Taunt, 1901
Barley Mow, Henry Taunt, 1901 (framing blackened)
© Oxfordshire County Council Photographic Archive; HT8601

The Barley Mow is still there and still thatched and still quaint - as long as you choose to ignore the arcade machine with its flashing lights and see the candles instead.  And they do still remember where the ferryman sat in the ingle-nook before the bridge was built, which was, after all, only 136 years before I was told about it …
 
Jerome makes a mistake here (I think).  Coming upstream, one day ends -

... and pulled up to Culham, and slept under the canvas, in the backwater there.

However the following day starts with -

We had finished breakfast, and were through Clifton Lock by half-past eight. 

It is maybe the similarity of the weirs, weir streams and lock cuts at Long Wittenham and then Sutton, that has confused him, as it does me from time to time.
 
1975: The Barley Mow was gutted by fire -

Barley Mow, gutted by fire, 1975
Barley Mow, gutted by fire, 1975
© Oxfordshire County Council Photographic Archive; D206786a

1977: The Barley Mow was totally restored at a cost of £80,000.
 
1997: The Barley Mow was rebuilt and rethatched.

 
 
 
 
(Upstream to Long Wittenham)




Introduction
Estuary
PLA
QEII Br
Barrier
Tower Br
Custom Ho
London Br
; Frost Fairs
Cannon St Rb
The Great Stink
Southwark Br
Millenium Br
Blackfriars Rb
Blackfriars Br
Waterloo Br
Charing Cross Rb
Westminster Br
Lambeth Br
Vauxhall Br
Victoria Rb
Chelsea Br
Albert Br
Battersea Br
Battersea Rb
Wandsworth Br
Fulham Rb
Putney Br
Hammersmith Br
Barnes Rb
Chiswick Br
Kew Rb
Kew Br
RICHMOND
Twickenham Br
Richmond Rb
Richmond Br
TEDDINGTON
Kingston Rb
Kingston Br
Ditton Slip
Hampton Br
MOLESEY
SUNBURY
Walton Br
Desborough Cut
SHEPPERTON
Chertsey Br
CHERTSEY
M3 Br
Laleham Slip
PENTON HOOK
Staines Rb
Staines Br
Runnymede Br
BELL WEIR
Magna Carta Is
OLD WINDSOR
Albert Br
Datchet
Victoria Br
Black Potts Rb
ROMNEY
Eton
Windsor Br
Windsor Rb
Windsor Slip
Elizabeth Br
BOVENEY
Dorney Lake
York Cut
Summerleaze Fb
MonkeyIsland
New Thames Br
BRAY
Bray Slip
Maidenhead Rb
Maidenhead Br
Below Boulters
BOULTERS
Cliveden
Hedsor
COOKHAM
Cookham Slip
Cookham Br
BourneEnd RFb
Quarry Woods
A404 Br
MARLOW
Marlow Br
Bisham
TEMPLE
HURLEY
Medmenham
Culham Ct
Aston Slip
HAMBLEDEN
Temple Is
Fawley Ct
Remenham
Regatta
Phyllis Ct
Henley Slip
Leander
Red Lion
Henley Br
Angel on Br
Landing
Hobbs Boatyard
Hobbs Slipway
MARSH
Hennerton
Bolney
Wargrave
Shiplake Rb
R.Loddon
SHIPLAKE
Sonning Br
SONNING
Dreadnought
K&A Canal
CAVERSHAM
Reading Br
Caversham Br
Reading Slip
Purley
MAPLEDURHAM
Hardwick Ho
Whitchurch Br
WHITCHURCH
Hartswood Reach
Gatehampton Rb
Goring Gap
Goring Br
GORING
Swan
CLEEVE
Moulsford
Moulsford Rb
Papist Way Slip
Winterbrook Br
Wallingford Br
BENSON
Shillingford Br
R.Thame
DAYS
Burcot
Clifton Hampden
Clifton Church
Clifton H Br
Barley Mow
Long Wittenham
CLIFTON
Appleford Rb
Sutton Courtenay
Sutton Br
CULHAM
Culham Cut Fb
Abingdon Slip
Abingdon
Abingdon Br
ABINGDON
Nuneham Rb
Nuneham
Nuneham Park
Radley Boats
SANDFORD
Rose Island
Kennington Rb
Isis Br
Iffley Mill
IFFLEY
Oxford Rowing
Isis
Donnington Br
Riverside Slip
Boathouses
Punting
Lower Cherwell
Upper Cherwell
Islip
Head of River
Salters Steamers
Folly Br
Bacons Folly
Oxford Fb
Osney Fb
Weir stream
Osney Rb
Bullstake Stream
Osney Marina
OSNEY
Osney Br
Four Rivers
OLD RIVER
CANAL
Medley Weir Site
Medley Fb
Bossoms
Perch
Trout
GODSTOW
Godstow Nunnery
Godstow Br
Thames Br
KINGS
River Evenlode
EYNSHAM
Swinford Br
Oxford Cruisers
PINKHILL
Farmoor
Stanton Harcourt
Bablock Slip
Arks Weir Site
NORTHMOOR
Harts Fb
//Rose Revived
Newbridge
//Maybush
River Windrush
below Shifford
SHIFFORD
Shifford Fb
Tenfoot Fb
Trout Inn
Tadpole Br
RUSHEY
Old Mans Fb
RADCOT
Radcot Cradle Fb
Swan Inn
Radcot New Br
Radcot Old Br
GRAFTON
Eaton Hastings
Kelmscott
Eaton Fb
BUSCOT
Bloomers Hole Fb
Trout Inn
St Johns Br
ST JOHNS
Halfpenny Br
Marina Slip
LIMIT
Inglesham
Hannington Br
Kempsford
Castle Eaton Br
Marston Meysey
A419 Br
Cricklade
SOURCE?
THAMES HEAD
SEVEN SPRINGS