The Swan Inn at Pangbourne
There are two 'Swans' above two succesive lock:
The Swan Inn at Pangbourne; and the Swan at Streatley.
Left bank immediately above weir
The Swan at Pangbourne -
This beautiful 18th Century inn is the perfect retreat for business, as well as pleasure;
special occasions and gastronomic delights.
When you enter you will be met by a traditional setting with oak beams and three open fires to keep you warm on a frosty night. You are invited to join us in this trouble free, peaceful atmosphere where you can feel free to sit by the fire and read a paper with a drink or even a coffee and pastry. Meals, snacks can be enjoyed all day. In the warmer weather you can soak up the sun in our beer garden and enjoy the tranquility of this gorgeous river setting.
1873: Advertisement for the Elephant & Castle -
1887: Weir and Swan Hotel Pangbourne, Henry Taunt, the weir is hardly running at all -
Weir and Swan Hotel Pangbourne, Henry Taunt, 1887
© Oxfordshire County Council Photographic Archive; HT5138
1889: Jerome K Jerome's three men (not to mention the dog) started their river trip from Kingston, went up to Oxford and then returned to the Swan at Pangbourne, and, after two days of rain, ended their trip here -
Twenty minutes later, three figures, followed by a shamed-looking dog,
might have been seen creeping stealthily from the boat-house at the "Swan"
towards the railway station.
"Well," said Harris, reaching his hand out for his glass, "we have had a pleasant trip, and my hearty thanks for it to old Father Thames - but I think we did well to chuck it when we did.
Here's to Three Men well out of a Boat!"
1886: Taken In Tow, Pangbourne, Streatley & Goring, J Ashby-Sterry Listen to 'Taken In Tow'
How blithely the beauties break into a canter
And over the sward how their feet pit-a-pat !
The limber young lass in a white Tam o'Shanter,
The pouting young puss in a sailor-boy hat !
O, PANGBOURNE is pleasant in sweet Summertime,
And Streatley and Goring are worthy of rhyme:
The sunshine is hot and the breezes are still,
The river runs swift under Basildon Hill !
To lounge in a skiff is delightful to me,
I'm feeling as lazy as lazy can be;
I don't care to sail and I don't care to row
Since I'm lucky enough to be taken in tow !
Though battered am I, like the old Téméraire,
My tow-ers are young and my tow-ers are fair:
The one is Eleven, the other Nineteen,
The merriest maidens that ever were seen.
They pull with a will and they keep the line tight,
Dimpled Dolly in blue and sweet Hetty in white;
And though you may think it is not comme il faut,
'Tis awfully nice to be taken in tow.
I loll on the cushions, I smoke and I dream,
And list to the musical song of the stream;
The boat gurgles on by the rushes and weeds,
And, crushing the lilies, scroops over the reeds.
The sky is so blue and the water so clear,
I'm almost too idle to think or to steer !
Let scullers delight in hot toiling, but O !
Let me have the chance to be taken in tow !
The dragon-fly hums and the skiff glides along,
The leaves whisper low and the stream runneth strong,
But still the two maidens tramp girlfully on,
I'll reward them for this when we get to the Swan;
For then shall be rest for my excellent team,
A strawberry banquet, with plenty of cream !
Believe me, good people, for I ought to know,
'Tis capital fun to be taken in tow !
Not sure which 'Swan' he means so I quote it here because the Swan at Streatley has two good poems of its own already!
1906: Pangbourne from the Swan Hotel, Mortimer Menpes -
Pangbourne from the Swan Hotel, Mortimer Menpes 1906
1792: Picturesque Views on the Thames by Samuel Ireland -
place is much frequented by the angler, who,
in his favourite pursuit, may occasionally
find equal cause for an exertion of his patience
as his skill in the art. Among the various sorts of fish produced in this part of the
river, the pike in particular is found of a remarkable
THE village of Whitchurch, on the opposite side, presents no unpleasing object in landscape. The road from Pangbourn towards Reading runs, for a confiderable distance, nearly parallel with the river, and affords in many places a rich and variegated scenery.
1873: Taunt's Map and Guide to the Thames, quotes Greville Fennell -
"Pangbourne is another of those pearls of English landscape which our river threads.
No sweeter spot is within many miles. The Thames here seems especially fond of disporting itself here; and loth indeed to leave, it loiters in the great depth of the pools, creeps slily under the banks, frolics as a kitten after its tail in the eddies, and then dashes hurriedly off beneath the far-stretching pretty wooden bridge, as if to make up for time truantly lost."
1881: George Leslie -
On the Oxfordshire side is the village of
Whitchurch, which straggles up the steep hill;
the church, with its little wooden spire, and the mill, with finely
grown trees around it, lying snug by the waters edge;
the lock is in the middle of the river, the
weir is on the Pangbourne side, with a deep pool below it, and the usual
shallow spread below the pool. Into this
shallow part the small river or brook Pang empties itself by the side of a
large timber yard. The little Pang gives
much charm to the village, and in some places above is quite worthy of Bewicks
In the corner of the weir pool is a very old three-storied cottage, formerly the abode of Champ the fisherman. The old barn Mr. Boyce painted from it is just half-way up the Whitchurch hill. The village of Pangbourne lies back behind the railway; it has two inns, the George and the Elephant, both well known to boating men. The Swan by the river is very pretty and unaltered, but beds can hardly ever be obtained there.
1890: The Swan Hotel Pangbourne, Francis Frith -
1881: George Leslie -
One or two barges may generally be seen at the
coal wharf, helping the old-fashioned look of the place very much;
the signboard was painted by Mrs. Seymour Trower
Pangbourne is on the old road from Alton and Portsmouth to Oxford, and is mentioned in Whites Selborne; it is pleasant to picture the dear old man jogging along on Mouse his mare, by the side of the river, on one of his visits to Oxford, probably much interested in watching the swallows and martins skimming over the surface of the water.
The road itself is very pretty from here to Streatley, past Basildon; the railway is not offensive, as it is generally hidden in cuttings. There is also a path from Whitchurch to Goring, well worth trying, if time permits; it passes along the summit of Harts Wood, and the views are most varied and delightful.
1889: Jerome K Jerome -
The neighbourhood of Pangbourne, where the quaint little Swan Inn stands, must be as familiar to the HABITUES of the Art Exhibitions as it is to its own inhabitants.
1881: George Leslie -
About this time I passed two very pleasant
months at Whitchurch, opposite to Pangbourne, and became acquainted with the
beauties of Streatley, Maple Durham,
Hardwick House, and Harts Woods. At
Pangbourne I met my friend G. P. R. Boyce, the water-colour artist, who was
lodging at Champs picturesque little cottage, on the edge of the weir pool;
the rooms were very old and small, and it
pleased Mr. Boyces taste to hang among the humble cottage pictures one or two
precious little works by D. Rosetti. He
had brought with him also some of his favourite old blue tea-cups and plates. He painted two very fine works whilst I was
at Whitchurch; one of Champs cottage
itself and the weir pool with a twilight effect, and the other of a large old
barn half-way up the hill at Whitchurch;
there were a lot of black Berkshire pigs snoozling in the straw in the
Edwin Field, the distinguished solicitor, was then living at Streatley, and I recollect rowing up with Boyce to have supper with him. Field was an ardent lover of the river. One or more of his numerous artist friends were generally enjoying his hospitality at Cleve, he himself sketching from nature with the eager enthusiasm with which he pursued every occupation of his life. His memory should be cherished by all artists for the pains he took in mastering all the intricacies of the laws of artistic copyright, and if he had lived I have little doubt but the injustice and absurdities of the present law would have been righted long ago. His sad loss will long be felt by all who knew him. His death was as noble as his life, for when his sailing boat upset in the reach above Cleve Mill, a friend of his was with him who could not swim, and it was in the endeavour to save his friend that Edwin Field perished.
[ How the Victorians did love a fatality! - I have left out most of those reported by George Leslie, but this one scrapes in to honour his friend "an ardent lover of the river" ]
1956: Robert Gibbings, Till I End My Song -
Pangbourne, where the wind plays in the willows, I thought to myself that here must roam the spirits of Mr Toad, Mr Mole, and Mr Rat, for though these children of Kenneth Grahames mind grew into existence at Cookham Dene, they would surely have moved upstream with their author when he came to live in the cottage by the church at Pangbourne.
The seven deadly sins
The seven deadly sins are Pangbourne
villas on the LEFT bank above Whitchurch Lock -
This photo by Eric de Mare in Oxfordshire County Archives is said to show one of the Seven Deadly Sins - however I can't make it fit. I think there is a road between the Pangbourne Villas and the river. I have been told this is a house on the river above Reading.
[Probably not ] One of the Seven Deadly Sins, Eric de Mare
© Oxfordshire County Council Photographic Archive; AA98/05810
1929: A Thames Survey -
The row of villas near Pangbourne are an example of the pretentious and expensive sort of building which has not been mitigated by gardening. These houses have been locally christened the Seven Deadly Sins, which is sufficiently indicative of the opinion of the public upon such architectural disfigurement.
[ These particular deadly sins seem to me to have become less fatal with age! Perhaps time and gardening have now mitigated what obviously looked brash when first built. I suspect that the particular deadly sin with which they can now be associated is Jealousy. How many people who love the river would not want to live there? ]