QUEEN ELIZABETH II BRIDGE
LIVE THAMES SHIPPING MAPS

The Thames Estuary
The Thames Estuary, Claude Schneider
The QEII Bridge is too thin to show up in this photo

Map: Queen Elizabeth II Bridge


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Construction
 
Website

1991: Bridge opened by HM The Queen in October 1991 to carry the M25 over the Thames estuary. Prior to the opening, all traffic in both directions had to go under the river through the Dartford tunnels. This cable-stayed bridge carries four lanes of traffic in one direction, north-south, and the south-north traffic passes through the two tunnels. The main span is 450m and with the inclusion of the approaches the total span is 2872m, the height of the centre span is 65m above the river level to allow the passage of very large shipping. It is run as a toll crossing and affords spectacular views both up and down stream.

 

Queen Elizabeth II Bridge
Queen Elizabeth II Bridge

 

Queen Elizabeth II Bridge
Queen Elizabeth II Bridge Adrian Warren Photo Library

 

Queen Elizabeth II Bridge, Doug Myers, 2000
Queen Elizabeth II Bridge © Doug Myers 2000

QEII Bridge navigation
QEII Bridge, Port of London

Dartford Tunnels

1963: First tunnel opened
 
1980: Second tunnel opened
 
1986: M25 access completed

Inside one of the Dartford Tunnels
One of the Dartford Tunnels

DartTag - the Dartford River Crossing toll payment system.

Dartford Cable Tunnel

2003:  A 3m diameter tunnel built upstream of the Dartford Tunnels designed to carry and allow for maintenance of 400 kV national electric grid cable beneath the Thames.
 
BBC News - The Dartford Crossing, Bridge, & M25

 

Long Reach

 

THAMES STRATEGY EAST Part 4 - Reach 7-9 - This covers the following Reaches: Long; Fiddler's; North Fleet Hope; & Gravesend. A large (6.79Mb) pdf file.
THAMES STRATEGY EAST Part 4 - Reach 4-6 - This covers the following Reaches: Gallions; Barking; Halfway; Erith; Erith Rands; & Long. A large (7.52Mb) pdf file.
Thames Strategy East has the overall details.

REACH 6: ERITH REACH, ERITH RANDS AND LONG REACH
NORTHERN BANK: RAINHAM, WENNINGTON MARSHES AND PURFLEET
SOUTHERN BANK: BELVEDERE INDUSTRIAL ESTATES, ERITH, CRAYFORD AND DARTFORD MARSHES
 
CHARACTERISATION
This Reach stretches from the Havering Common Sewer to the edge of the Purfleet industrial area on the northern bank, and from Erith to Longreach Sewage Works on the southern bank. ...
 
In this Reach the river turns sharply south around Jenningtree Point, turns sharply east around Coldharbour Point and then turns south-east around Crayford Ness. From Crayford Ness the river runs in a straight course down to Stoneness by West Thurrock Marshes. At Jenningtree Point and Frog Island the river is approximately 750m wide. The river widens to approximately 1000m just beyond Coldharbour Point. This Reach is characterised by extensive areas of marshland, including Rainham, Wennington and Aveley Marshes to the north of the river, and Dartford and Crayford Marshes to the south of the river. ...
 
There is a significant change in character between Reaches 5 and 6. On the northern bank the character changes from the industrial riverfront of Dagenham Docks to the vast expanse of open grazing marsh by Rainham, Wennington and Aveley Marshes in Reach 6. Most of Rainham, Wennington and Aveley Marshes are flat grazing marshes of rank grassland and relatively dry reedbeds, intersected by a network of ditches. Rainham Marshes also have extensive silt lagoons, which are used to settle material dredged from the Thames. There are also a number of target butts which remain from former use as an MoD target range. The Cleanaway landfill site, located on the tip of Rainham Peninsula, is still an active domestic refuse landfill site until around 2012 and through previous landfilling operations and restoration a huge partly grass covered mound has been created. Here the character is semi-rural. Between Jenningtree Point and the eastern extent of Erith the character of the southern riverfront is predominantly industrial with some recent riverside residential development around Erith town centre. East of Erith the character is rural and there are views of open marshland to both sides of the river. The Cleanaway Waste Transfer Station, located on the jetty close to Coldharbour Point, is another prominent feature along the river. The Freightmaster Estate, located on the eastern side of the landfill site, comprises a number of low warehouses. The Mar Dyke separates Aveley Marshes from Purfleet, where the land rises up to Beacon Hill and forms a promontory with housing development and mature trees, which contrasts with the flat, treeless marshland to the west.
 
On the southern bank of the river the main land use from Jenningtree Point to Erith town centre is a mix of heavy industry, warehouses and commercial development. Riverside residential development has taken place along the riverfront on either side of the Waterfront Garden by Erith town centre. To the east of Erith heavy industry again dominates the riverfront. Erith is located on high ground close to the river. Two large brown brick tower blocks and a church spire mark the town centre. Erith suffered heavily from bombing during the Second World War and many of the original buildings were lost. Major redevelopment took place in the 1960s including the building of high rise towers, a shopping centre consisting predominantly of pre-cast concrete and the road infrastructure of the one-way system. The result of this is a heterogeneous centre, lacking identity and sometimes referred to as a ’hill of bits’. To the east of Erith lie Crayford and Dartford Marshes, divided by the sinuous River Darent/Dartford Creek which is flanked by flood embankments. These semi-freshwater marshes are drained by a network of ditches and grazed by cattle. The Darent Flood Barrier is a prominent vertical feature here. Immediately to the west of River Darent/Dartford Creek lies Darent Industrial Park which contains timber yards, scrap yards and light industrial uses. The former Joyce Green Hospital site, adjacent to Dartford Marshes, is previously developed land awaiting mixed-use development. Longreach Sewage Works is located to the east of Dartford Marshes.
 
The riverbank is predominantly soft around Rainham Peninsula on the northern bank of the river. On the southern bank the river edge is predominantly hard and vertical between Jenningtree Point and the start of Dartford Marshes, although there are some small sections of soft edge north of Erith. The riverbank is mainly soft by Dartford Marshes although there are some sections of sloping rip-rap. Both Aveley Marshes on the northern bank of the river and Dartford Marshes on the southern bank of the river are protected from tidal flooding by earth embankments.
 
In terms of river infrastructure, on the northern bank of the river there are three commercial terminals including the Tilda Rice Plant, which is a Safeguarded Wharf and Rainham Jetty. On the southern bank of the river there are seven commercial terminals, four of which are Safeguarded Wharves, and one of which is a deep water terminal. There are no launching sites on the northern bank, and one launching site on the southern bank at Erith Causeway. On the northern bank there are no water sports facilities, and on the southern bank there is Erith Yacht Club.
 
On the northern bank of the river there is currently a public footpath along the riverfront from Frog Island to Coldharbour Point on the Rainham Peninsula. There is currently no public access to the riverfront from Coldharbour into Purfleet. On the southern bank there is a public footpath along the riverfront from Jenningtree Point to Erith. There is no public access to the riverfront by the industrial area east of Erith town centre, but at Crayford Marshes the path again follows the riverfront. The River Darent/Dartford Creek is a major barrier to access and there is no access across the river close to the Thames riverfront without making a significant detour to the south. On the eastern side of the River Darent/Dartford Creek a public footpath continues along the riverfront past the sewage works.
 
The Inner Thames Marsh SSSI includes Rainham, Wennington and Aveley Marshes and forms the largest expanse of remaining wetland bordering the upper Reaches of the Thames Estuary. Crayford Marshes and Dartford Marshes are part of the Metropolitan Green Belt and are designated as Sites of Metropolitan and Borough Importance (including a Site of Nature Conservation Interest) and are also potential SSSI sites. They are regionally important grazing marshes that form an ecological continuum with the Inner Thames Marshes to the north and Erith Marshes to the west. As part of the Green Belt, their continued protection is vital both for the habitat they provide and checking urban sprawl. ...
 
The key sites of importance for built heritage are Christchurch at Erith and the World War II concrete barges/lighters at Rainham. There are three Conservation Areas in this Reach at Erith Riverside; Oak Road, Slade Green; and Purfleet. The Purfleet Heritage and Military Centre is the main tourist attraction. It is housed in the Royal Gunpowder Magazine, which is itself of heritage interest as it is the last of its size and type in the country. ...
 
The Purfleet area has yielded rich evidence of former environments and fluvial conditions, including mammal, mollusc, pollen and ostrapod records. The discovery of two straight-tusked elephants and a woolly mammoth at Sandy Lane, and the remains of the first jungle cat recorded in the British Isles are among the most important finds. Other finds include the remains of Neolithic stone hut circles on the mudflats near the low tide line at Purfleet, Palaeolithic and Neolithic finds, Neolithic forest and Roman discoveries. Howbury medieval moated site (a Scheduled Ancient Monument) is situated on higher ground in the marsh beside Crayford Creek. ...
 
Key Characteristics and Influences
• The distinguishing features of this Reach are the extensive areas of open marshland including Rainham, Wennington and Aveley Marshes north of the river, and Dartford and Crayford Marshes south of the river, giving the Reach a semi-rural character. This flat expanse with the raised profile of the Rainham landfill site.
• Heavy industry is also a pervasive feature of the riverside particularly on the southern bank on either side of Erith.
• The two main settlements, Erith and Purfleet, are both located on high ground and have a green wooded backdrop.
• The main landmarks in this Reach are the Darent Flood Barrier, the Cleanaway Landfill Site, the Purfleet Military and Heritage Centre, and Christchurch at Erith.

1887: Dickens’s Dictionary of the Thames, An Unconventional Handbook -

Dartford is celebrated in the annals of ornithology as the locality where, in April, 1773, Dr. Latham first discovered the Dartford Warbler, till then unrecognised as a British bird. Having communicated his discovery to Pennant, the bird was described and figured by the latter naturalist in the fourth edition of his ’British Zoology’, in 1776.

Map: Purfleet

Left bank
 
4 Frith photos of Purfleet

Dartford Marshes, right bank

Training Ship Cornwall -

T.S.Cornwall
T.S.Cornwall, by permission of Peter Higginbottom

1885: Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames, T S Corwall -

This reformatory training-ship of the School-Ship Society is anchored off Purfleet. As a general rule the committee do not admit boys unless the three following conditions are satisfied:
1. That the boy be sentenced to not less than three years' detention.
2. That he be not less than 13 years of age nor more than 15.
3. That he be certified as sound and healthy.
The comparative cost per head on ordinary maintenance and management is £23 5s. 8d. Funds are urgently needed, as "the amounts received on account of the Treasury allowance and the county and borough rates do little more than suffice for the maintenance of the boys and the payments of the officers". Visitors are requested not to go on Saturday, which is cleaning day on board.
The Cornwall was once the Wellesley, and was built in Bombay of teak in 1815, and was the flagship of Sir W. Parker and of Lord Dundonald.

Purfleet Lighthouse by Mike Millichamp -

At the top of Longreach is Purfleet where all trace of the experimental lighthouse has long since disappeared. Here in 1828 at the Botany on Beacon Hill at a height of 150 feet Trinity House acquired a plot of land and built Purfleet lighthouse at the top with commanding views of the river. Experiments with lamps and light reflectors were carried out here for a short time and then abandoned. By the 1920s only the stump of the lighthouse remained. Today the chalk hill has been carved away rendering the ground level for modern urbanisation.

 

Purfleet Experimental Lighthouse, 1828
Purfleet Experimental Lighthouse, 1828

Map: Crayford Ness Light, right bank

Crayford Ness Light, by Mike Millichamp -

Crayford Ness Lighthouse
Crayford Ness Lighthouse

Virtually opposite on the bend of Erith Rands and Long Reach on the Kent bank is Crayford Ness, at 18 miles from London Bridge and established in the 1950s as a stone tower. It is situated on the land side of the flood defence barrier on the edge of an isolated and run down industrial estate that mainly serves a car-breaking yard.
The lighthouse was moved 165 feet to its current location in 1981 as part of the overall arrangements for the construction of the Greater London Council Thames Flood defences. The old familiar red metal structure (identical to the old Northfleet Upper light, also demolished) which replaced the stone tower in 1967 was demolished and the light now sits in a rather unattractive corrugated iron shed mounted midway on the Port of London Authority radar tower. This grey painted 74 feet high metal tower is connected by a walkway to another similar tower, but twice the size, which acts as a radio communication tower. The light is visible for 3 miles.

1885: Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames, Map [Erith to London] -

Erith to London, Dickens, 1885
Erith to London, Dickens, 1885

Erith Rands

Erith Yacht Club History
 
Light E-clips by Mike Millichamp -  

THAMES STRATEGY EAST Part 4 - Reach 4 - This covers the following Reaches: Gallions; Barking; Halfway; Erith; Erith Rands; & Long. A large (7.52Mb) pdf file.
Thames Strategy East has the overall details.
The Thames East Strategy description is above at Long Reach

 

... for about 30 years from 1960 to 1990 there was a red metal frame tower lighthouse on the north east end of Wallace's jetty.

Map: Coldharbour Light

left bank
 
Coldharbour Light by Mike Millichamp -

Coldharbour Point Lighthouse
Coldharbour Point Lighthouse

Erith Reach lies between Rainham Creek and the Coldharbour Point where the river takes a turn into Erith Sands. At Coldharbour Point on the Essex bank is lighthouse No. 3 at 17 miles from London Bridge. This lonely lighthouse, again identical to Margaret Ness and Cross Ness, and similarly secured, is situated on the shoreline by the vast landfill site.
It was established in 1885 and today at 38 feet high shows a light visible for 3 miles.

Erith Reach

 

THAMES STRATEGY EAST Part 4 - Reach 4 - This covers the following Reaches: Gallions; Barking; Halfway; Erith; Erith Rands; & Long. A large (7.52Mb) pdf file.
Thames Strategy East has the overall details.

REACH 5: HALFWAY AND ERITH REACH
NORTHERN BANK: DAGENHAM DOCKS, FAIRVIEW INDUSTRIAL ESTATE
SOUTHERN BANK: ERITH MARSHES, ERITH MARSHES INDUSTRIAL ESTATES
 
CHARACTERISATION:
This Reach stretches from the Goresbrook to the outfall of the the Havering Common Sewer (adjacent to the Tilda works) on the northern bank of the River, and from the Riverside Golf Club to Jenningtree Point on the southern bank. ...
Within this Reach the river turns in a south-easterly direction around Crossness Point and then sharply south around Jenningtree Point on the southern bank. The river is approximately 700m wide here including the mudflats. The Reach is characterised by heavy industry and utilities’ infrastructure, notably the Ford Dagenham Works and Tilda works on the northern bank, and the Crossness Sewage Works on the southern bank. The northern boundary of the Reach area is delineated by the A13, which is elevated through most of the Reach. ...
 
The character of the river changes noticeably between Reaches 4 and 5. The dominant land uses change from open, previously developed land and residential riverside development in Reach 4, to a built-up riverfront comprising heavy industry, distribution depots, warehousing and utilities infrastructure in Reach 5. Travelling east from Jenningtree Point, there is a feeling of change from a relatively urban industrial setting to a more open rural setting with marshland.
 
Land use on the northern bank of the river is almost exclusively industrial and commercial. Dagenham Dock, which is dominated by the large-scale Ford Dagenham Works, comprises a range of large-scale warehouses, factory buildings and recycling plants, two 85 metre high wind turbines, a power station, oil and chemical storage cylinders, chimneys, aggregate depots, extensive open car compounds, and pylons. Notable features are the number of large jetties protruding into the river.
 
The Fairview Industrial Park is located between the expansive car compounds adjacent to the Ford Dagenham Works and Rainham Creek. Here, there are a number of business centres, offices and works yards which contrast with the Centre for Engineering and Manufacturing Excellence (CEME) - which represents an island of contemporary design in an area dominated by industrial and postindustrial landscapes. On the northern side of the A13 lies the Riverside Sewage Works. In between the industrial units there are pockets of seminatural vegetation such as the area of scrub by the riverside at Hornchurch Shoot, and Dagenham Breach - a lake between the Ford Dagenham Works and the A13. A number of tributaries enter the Thames in this Reach. These include the Goresbrook between Barking Riverside and Dagenham Dock, the Beam River east of the Ford Dagenham Works, Rainham Creek (formed by the culverting of the Ingrebourne River at its confluence with the River Thames at Frog Island), and the Havering Common Sewer (which acts as a surface water drain for a large landward hinterland) adjacent to Tilda Rice.
 
On the southern bank the East London Sewage Incinerator at Crossness is a new landmark for the area. It has a shiny metallic façade and curved roof reminiscent of the Thames Flood Barrier further up-stream. The Crossness Pumping Station, located close to the riverside on the western side of the sewage works, is also an important landmark and a visitor destination. The Beam Engine House, part of the Pumping Station complex, is a Grade 1 listed building in a Victorian Romanesque style, featuring some spectacular restored ornamental iron work. The sewage works is separated from Thamesmead by Riverside Golf Club, and from the residential areas to the south and the industrial estates to the east by Erith Marshes. A new Local Nature Reserve, Crossness Local Nature Reserve, has been designated east of the sewage works. The land here is managed for wildlife and a warden has been appointed. A large industrial area stretches from Crossness Sewage Treatment Works to Erith, which includes the Belvedere Industrial Estate, a large electricity power station and fragments of marsh and ditches. This area has been the focus of significant regeneration in recent years. A planning application for a waste incineration plant in the area is currently under consideration. Most of the industrial and warehouse buildings are shed-like and flat-roofed. On the northern bank between Dagenham Docks and Tilda, the riverbank has predominantly hard vertical edges. There are two areas of soft sloping bank, one east of the Goresbrook and the other east of the Beam River. On the southern bank the riverbank is soft and sloping by the Riverside Golf Club, and hard and vertical by Crossness Sewage Treatment Works. Between the sewage works and the jetty and wharf close to Jenningtree Point there is a section of hard sloping riverbank.
 
There are five commercial terminals which are currently in use on the northern bank serving Dagenham Dock and the Ford Dagenham Works, all are Safeguarded Wharves. There are seven jetties also on the northern bank associated with the commercial terminals at the Ford Dagenham Works, Frog Island and the Tilda works. The latter is also a Safeguarded Wharf. On the southern bank there are two wharfs and four commercial jetties associated with Crossness and the industrial estates.
 
There are no formal water sports centres, launch sites, public piers or river edge steps in this Reach.
 
On the northern bank there is public access along the riverfront between the eastern boundary of Frog Island and the Common Sewer outfall, with access from both Ferry Lane and the Cleanaway Landfill site. On the southern bank there is established public access along the majority of the riverfront with access from Crossness Sewage Treatment Works past Jenningtree Point to Erith. Habitats found within this Reach include river flood defence walls, grazing marsh, inter-tidal mudflats and bodies of fresh open water. This includes Rainham Creek which, despite its poor water quality (which should be addressed) is an important over-wintering site for wildfowl. There are several sites of biodiversity importance including Erith Marshes and Crossness Local Nature Reserve which are designated as Sites of Metropolitan Importance. Erith Marshes is one of a few remaining examples of Thames-side grazing marsh which is a Priority Habitat under the UK Biodiversity Action Plan. Several sites are designated as Sites of Borough Importance (Grade 1) including the Beam River, Dagenham Breach and fragments of Erith Marsh within the industrial estate. ...
 
Crossness Pumping Station is a Grade 1 listed building and the principal built heritage interest on the southern bank. It lies within the Crossness Conservation Area. The area between the Beam River and the Goresbrook supported one of the largest fishing fleets in England during much of the 19th Century The area between Rainham Creek and the Tilda works is one of considerable local heritage interest. The Rainham Ferry crossing, dating back to Norman times, brought prosperity to Rainham Village (which is just outside the Strategy Area). The Ingrebourne River became navigable in the mid-18th Century and from the 1920s heavy industry, in particular the Murex Site, led to the decline of the ferry settlement. There is also a Conservation Area within Belvedere. ...
 
The most important archaeological discovery in this Reach is the outcrops of prehistoric forest exposed on both banks. Other archaeological finds include a prehistoric log boat, wooden objects and stakes, trackways and a Roman settlement close to the foreshore of Rainham Marshes. There is a record of continual human settlement of the Rainham area from at least the Bronze Age. Both Erith and Rainham are mentioned in Domesday Book (1086). ...
 
Key Characteristics and Influences:
• This Reach has an open estuarine character with views to the distant hills north and south of the river which form the visual extent of the Thames Valley, and land uses of heavy industry, warehousing and utilities infrastructure.
• Industrial uses dominate in this Reach and it suffers generally from fragmentation and a lack of accessibility and permeability.
• Striking features including the riverside Grade 1 listed Crossness Pumping Station (already a visitor attraction), and the East London Sewage Incinerator.

Jenningtree Point, right bank

Jenningtree Point Lighthouse, by Mike Millichamp -

Jenningtree Point Lighthouse, 1929
The long since gone Jenningtree Point Lighthouse, 1929

Jenningtree Point, or Julian Tree Point as it used to be called, is situated on the Kent bank at 15 miles from London Bridge. Here the river is bounded by pile driven concrete walls with a concrete path weaving around the various industrial wharfs and factory outlets. Jenningtree Point lighthouse was established in 1901. It stood on foundations on the land side well below the level of the river bank on the land side. It was 44 feet high and operated by a sun valve controlling the acetylene gas which was recharged every six months. By 1990 it was demolished and all trace of it has gone.

Fog Island, left bank, opposite Jenningtree Point

 

Halfway Reach

 

THAMES STRATEGY EAST Part 4 - Reach 4 - This covers the following Reaches: Gallions; Barking; Halfway; Erith; Erith Rands; & Long. A large (7.52Mb) pdf file.
Thames Strategy East has the overall details.
See Erith Reach above for Thames Strategy East description.

 

Map: Cross Ness

 

Right bank
 
Cross Ness Lighthouse by Mike Millichamp -

Cross Ness Lighthouse
Cross Ness Lighthouse

On the Kent bank at 13 miles from London Bridge is Cross Ness or Leather Bottle Point. Cross Ness lighthouse is placed in front of a modern luxury penthouse type of housing at Thamesmead; in keeping with the area, the coastal path and cycle track is free of any dumped rubbish or burnt out cars. It was established in 1895 and today at 41 feet high shows a light visible for 8 miles.

Map: Barking Reach

 

1610: Camden -

The Tamis, which is mightily by this time increased, doth violentlie carry away with him the streames of many waters, hath a sight (to speake onely of what is worth remembrance) of Berking, which Bede named Berecing, a Nunnery founded by Erkenwald Bishop of London, where Roding, a little river, entreth into the Tamis.

1792: The Dagenham Breach - Picturesque Views on the River Thames, Samuel Ireland -

IN the beginning of the present century [ 1707 ], the damage sustained from inundations, at what is called Dagenham Breach, was of such direful consequence, as to become an object of national importance. It was occasioned by the blowing up [ ie undermining and washing away - not an explosion! ] of a small sluice or trunk made for the drain of the land-waters on the banks of the Thames, and was at its beginning not more than sixteen feet broad, but for want of proper attention, the constant force and fall of the water, in a few years increased to so great a depth, as to extend in several branches, above a mile and a half into the country.

IT is computed that more than one hundred and twenty acres of marsh ground were washed into the Thames by this inundation.

After many unsuccessful projects, carried on at an enormous expence by the land-owners, to stop up this breach; it was at length relinquished by them as impracticable ; Parliament, however, considering it as a circumstance worthy their attention, and highly necessary for preserving the navigation of the Thames, appointed trustees for conducting this work.

ON the 26th day of January, 1715, they entered into a contract with a Captain John Perry, for making up and stopping the breach in the levels of Dagenham and Havering, and for so effectually excluding the water, as to leave no leakage of the fourth part of an inch, even at the highest tides. This arduous work was accomplished in less than two years, for twenty-five thousand pounds, the sum agreed upon between the Captain and the Trustees.

1721: Dagenham Breach Map by Captain John Perry -

Dagenham Breach, Perry, 1721
Dagenham Breach, Perry, 1721

1722: A Tour through the Eastern Counties of England, Daniel Defoe -

We saw, passing from Barking to Dagenham, the famous breach, made by an inundation of the Thames, which was so great as that it laid near 5,000 acres of land under water, but which after near ten years lying under water, and being several times blown up, has been at last effectually stopped by the application of Captain Perry, the gentleman who, for several years, had been employed in the Czar of Muscovy’s works, at Veronitza, on the River Don. This breach appeared now effectually made up, and they assured us that the new work, where the breach was, is by much esteemed the strongest of all the sea walls in that level.

THAMES STRATEGY EAST Part 4 - Reach 4 - This covers the following Reaches: Gallions; Barking; Halfway; Erith; Erith Rands; & Long. A large (7.52Mb) pdf file.
Thames Strategy East has the overall details.

GALLIONS AND BARKING REACH
NORTHERN BANK: BECKTON, CREEKMOUTH
SOUTHERN BANK: THAMESMEAD
 
CHARACTERISATION:
This Reach stretches from Gallions Point, near the entrance to the Royal Docks, to the mouth of the Goresbrook on the northern bank, and from the eastern to the western extent of Thamesmead on the southern bank. ...
 
In this Reach the river turns sharply north-east around Gallions Point and east around Tripcock Ness. At Barking Point the river turns slightly to the north-east and then sharply to the south-east around Cross Ness. The river is at its narrowest at Gallions Point where it is approximately 500m wide. The river widens to approximately 650m where the proposed new Thames Gateway Bridge will cross the river, and is at its widest by Crossness where the river is approximately 700m wide. The Reach is characterised by extensive areas of industrial and previously developed land on the northern bank, notably the Beckton Gas Works site and the Barking Riverside development site, and by the Thamesmead development on the southern bank. ...
 
There is a definite change in character beyond Gallions Point as the river widens and becomes more estuarine. In contrast to Reaches 1 to 3, where the riverbanks are densely built up and where there are few views beyond the riverbanks, this Reach is more open and with sloping, soft river edges at Tripcock Park and the Barking Riverside.
 
The northern bank has extensive areas of previously developed land. The Beckton Gas Works site has been partly developed with the Beckton Retail Park which includes a tall illuminated feature that is visible from a wide area. The remaining part of the site is still derelict and is a valuable post-industrial wasteland habitat. Some of the cylindrical gas holders are still present at Beckton Gas Works and are imposing features on the open waste ground. The Beckton Sewage Treatment Works, one of the largest in Europe, is situated to the east of the Beckton Gas Works site adjacent to Barking Creek. The Creekmouth Industrial Estate, characterised by small scale industries, many of which transport goods by river, is located on the eastern side of Barking Creek. Immediately north and east of the industrial estate is the Thames View Estate, an area of predominantly low-rise, but with some medium-rise, housing. The Barking Riverside development site is one of the largest previously developed sites along the Thames covering an area of approximately 200 ha. The site was previously occupied by three power stations and is, consequently, highly contaminated. Extensive filling operations are now taking place to remediate the site, which comprises former pulverised fuel ash lagoons, a redundant, capped tip for domestic refuse, several lines of pylons that dominate the skyline, and a large electrical switching station. The capped tip is a domed landform covered with rough grass; this area has a semi-rural character that is quite different to the surrounding urban and industrial character. Two tributaries enter the Thames in this Reach, Barking Creek and the Goresbrook. Barking Creek is navigable up to Barking Quay close to Barking town centre. The eastern bank of the creek, especially is built-up with commercial and industrial uses. The Barking Creek Flood Barrier is a significant landmark in the Reach.
 
The southern bank is dominated by Thamesmead, a large-scale development conceived as a New Town in the 1960s. The development is built on former marshland and incorporates a system of canals and lakes linked to a central pumping station which discharges water into the Thames. Tidal flooding is a critical issue on this low-lying site, three miles of flood defences were raised and strengthened to prevent flooding. The flood defence embankment and housing, therefore, partially block views to and from the river. The first two stages of the development, around South Mere, were built in pre-cast concrete and comprise high and low rise blocks with interconnected walkways. Some of these areas have no habitable uses at ground floor due to the risk of flooding. In the later stages of the development, following improvements to the flood defences, the housing was mainly cul-de-sac development of two-storey brick built houses with pitched, tiled roofs.
 
The system of canals and lakes are incorporated into a network of green spaces, including Crossway Lake Nature Reserve and Tripcock Park. Tripcock Park, located adjacent to the river by Tripcock Ness, is currently an informal ’wild space’ on a disused tip and workings. Willows, scrub and grasses have colonised the site naturally. The main features in this space are the ’Twin Tumps’, which are two moated ammunition stores built around 1890. The proposed Thames Gateway Bridge will provide a river crossing from Beckton to Tripcock Park.
 
On the northern bank the river edge is predominantly hard and vertical from Gallions Point to the eastern extent of the Creekmouth Industrial Estate. At Barking Riverside the edge is soft and sloping and the mud flats are extensive. On the southern bank the river edge is predominantly hard and vertical with sections of sloping rip-rap west of Tripcock Park. There is a soft, sloping edge to the river by Tripcock Park with willow trees, scrub and reeds that provide a strong contrast to the built-up character of the riverbanks at Woolwich and North Woolwich.
 
River based infrastructure is mainly focused around the Creekmouth Industrial Estate. There are three areas of Safeguarded Wharfs by Barking Creek and one by the River Thames serving the industrial estate, including ten commercial terminals. Gallions Point Marina is located on the northern bank on the Beckton Gas Works riverside. There are no launching sites or piers in this Reach.
 
There is currently very limited public access to the riverfront along stretches of the northern bank. There is a public footpath providing access to the mouth of Barking Creek, and from where there are close-up views of the Barking Creek Flood Barrier. There is also a public footpath along the eastern section of the Barking Riverside riverfront (although access is now restricted due to the earthworks being carried out on site). All of the Thamesmead riverfront path on the southern riverbank is now complete and offers a combination of formal hard surfacing and more informal unsurfaced paths.
 
There are several sites of biodiversity importance in this Reach. Barking Creek, The Ripple Nature Reserve and Tripcock Park are designated as Sites of Metropolitan Importance. The Beckton Sewage Works and Gas Works sites are designated as Sites of Borough Importance and are subject to Thames Water operational requirements. The intertidal mudflats of Barking Riverside are very important for wintering wildfowl and waders, and the areas of marsh, grassland and scrub at Barking Riverside support important populations of locally uncommon breeding birds. ...
 
There are no statutory listed buildings in this Reach, however, the eastern entrance to the Royal Docks, the Mill Pool at Barking (home to the world’s largest fishing fleet in the early 1800s), and the site of Beckton Gas Works are locally important. Gallions Hotel, close to the Royal Docks and the Millpool/Barking Town Quay, just outside the study area, are potential visitor attractions. There are two Conservation Areas: the Town Quay, near Barking town centre and Malthouse/Icehouse beside Barking Creek. ...
 
A number of archaeological finds have been made in the area, including extremely rare Upper Palaeolithic/early Mesolithic land surfaces with evidence of flint tool manufacture, an extensive buried prehistoric forest and prehistoric wooden structure, a small wooden figurine known as the ’Dagenham idol’, and evidence of occupation in the Roman period north-east of Thamesmead ... The town on Barking is of early medieval origin and is mentioned in Domesday Book (1086) ...
 
Key Characteristics and Influences:
• This Reach has an open estuarine character that is strongly influenced by the extensive open areas of industrial and previously developed land.
• New riverside residential development characterises the riverfront by Thamesmead and Gallions Point.
• The main landmarks are the Barking Creek Flood Barrier, the Twin Tumps in Tripcock Park, and the Barking Riverside Switching Station.

Margaret Ness, right bank, also known as Trip Cock Ness

Margaret Ness by Mike Millichamp -

In the days of sail Margaret Ness went under the name of 'Trip Cock Point' as beyond this point vessels coming up the river were prohibited from carrying their anchors 'cock billed' or hanging from a cable.

Margaret Ness Lighthouse
Margaret Ness Lighthouse

On the Kent bank 11 miles from London Bridge is London's nearest lighthouse; Margaret Ness light nestles on hard ground on the river side of the flood defence bank on which is a cycle track and coastal path littered with the wrecks of joy rider's stolen burnt out cars and other items of rubbish that people have felt fit to dump there. The red iron framework tower is surrounded by a sharp pointed metal fence and topped with razor wire. The compound gate carries a health warning of the dangers of razor wire; the danger of climbing the tower; and other health and security warnings in an attempt to keep vandals out and the Port of London Authority free from litigation. It was established in 1902 and today at 30 feet high shows a light visible for 8 miles

Gallions Reach

 

THAMES STRATEGY EAST Part 4 - Reach 4 - This covers the following Reaches: Gallions; Barking; Halfway; Erith; Erith Rands; & Long. A large (7.52Mb) pdf file.
Thames Strategy East has the overall details.
See Barking Reach above for Thames Strategy East description.

Site of proposed Desalination Plant, left bank, 1 km below proposed Gateway Bridge

 

2005: Thames Water applied for planning permission for a £200 million plant to make drinking water for 400,000 people
 
2006 March: Newham Council approved planning permission. The Mayor of London, Ken Livingstone, rejected the plan
 
2005 May: Thames Water appealed and a five week enquiry started.

2007 June 15: Thames desalination plant to be powered by green energy
Plant will run on bio-diesel from plants
Thames Water today confirmed it intends to run the proposed desalination plant in the Thames Estuary entirely on renewable energy.
Plans have been drawn up to run the plant, which has been recommended for planning approval by the government’s Planning Inspector, on bio-diesel, a liquid fuel made from plants. Thames Water is also investigating whether some of this fuel could in future come from reprocessing the discarded cooking fat and oil from homes, restaurants and takeaways, which often blocks London’s drains.
The plant, which would be built on the north bank of the Thames at Beckton in East London, was the subject of a planning inquiry last year.
The Government today signalled its approval for the plant, subject to an undertaking from Thames Water dealing with the requirement for an operating agreement. If approved, the plant will be the first of its kind in the UK, removing salt from water in the tidal stretch of the Thames to supply up to 140 million litres of water a day to London during times of drought.

2008, 9th June -

Dubai based port operator DP World has received the final seal of approval to build a USD 3 billion shipping port and logistics park on the banks of the River Thames in southeast England.

The London Gateway project, which DP World inherited following its acquisition of P&O in 2006, involves the development of an 1800 acre form oil refinery in Essex into a deep sea port and the biggest logistics park in the United Kingdom. Construction work is scheduled to commence later this year, following a harbor empowerment order from the department of transport.

DP World's plans include a 2300 meter long container quay with a fully developed capacity of 3.5 million standard container units a year. In addition, the logistics park will offer 9.5 million square feet for the distribution, manufacturing and high tech sectors.

Mr Simon Moore CEO of London Gateway said that "This is an historic day for the shipping industry and the economy as a whole. We will be the UK's first major port for more than 25 years. London Gateway will be a port centric logistics platform of a size and scale unique in the UK. Our customers will be able to cut costs from their supply chains, increase efficiency and reduce their environmental footprints."

Final approval of the project follows a long battle for P&O to develop the site, including a public inquiry and a number of amendments to the original plans, in addition to measures to cope with extra road traffic.

Map: Proposed Thames Gateway Bridge

Four possible Thames Gateway Bridge designs –

Four designs for the Gateway Bridge
Four Designs for Thames Gateway Bridge

The proposed Thames Gateway Bridge (TGB) would have been a local road bridge connecting Beckton to Thamesmead in East London, with two segregated and dedicated public transport lanes and separate lanes for pedestrians and cyclists. The bridge would improve accessibility to and within the Thames Gateway and support the regeneration of East London. Significantly reduced journey times and access to employment opportunities would be created.

The Public Inquiries opened in June 2005 and closed in May 2006. 
It did not recommend the scheme. The Secretary of State asked for the enquiry to be re-opened - but the whole scheme was withdrawn before it could be re-considered

1795: View of Erith, Purfleet and Long Reach -

Erith 1795 © MOTCO
View of Erith, Purfleet and Long Reach. June 1, 1795
J. Farington R.A. delt. J.C. Stadler sculpt. (Published) by J. & J. Boydell, Shakespeare Gally. Pall Mall & (No. 90) Cheapside (London)

Map: Woolwich Free Ferry

1308: Woolwich ferryman, William de Wicton, sold his business and a house, to William Atte, a mason, for £10.
 
1320: the people of Woolwich petitioned Parliament to suppress the ferries at Greenwich and Erith, because Woolwich ferry was a "Royal Ferry" favoured of the king.
 
1811: Act of Parliament was passed for the purposes of establishing a ferry across the Thames at Woolwich, from the old ballast or sand wharf, which was opposite Chapel Street ( now Chapel Hill) where the dockyard then terminated. This was to be a common ferry consisting of one or more boats or such other vessels as shall be sufficient and proper for the passage or conveyance of persons, cattle, carriages, goods, wares and merchandise over the said river Thames.
 
1816: The 1811 Act was repealed.  The watermen of Woolwich were very dissatisfied with the monopoly given to the western ferry by the act. There was a 40 shilling fine for anyone carrying people or goods over the river within half a mile of the ferry.  The 1811 ferry however continued till 1844.
 
1838: Barge house ferry expanded -

The lessees of Woolwich ferry have within the last few weeks stationed here a new ferry boat of larger dimensions than any on the river, with a view to meeting the increase of traffic that has lately taken place between the two counties. Mr hose, the proprietor of the "Old barge house" is constructing an esplanade extending along the banks of the river, 300 yards, the depths upwards of 130 foot.

1850: onwards there were proposals for superseding the ancient horse raft of Woolwich ferry by a steam vessel, the prevailing idea being a flat bottomed boat grounding on the beach.
 
1880: a public meeting was held in Woolwich to see whether the parish could afford to set up its own steam ferry.
 
1884: after making a general survey of existing communications across the Thames, the metropolitan board of works agreed to provide the Ferry, and in the "Metropolitan board of works (various powers act)" of 1815, obtained statutory authority to ferry across the Thames at Woolwich, Passengers, animals, vehicles and goods, free of all tolls, rates or charges.
 
1887: Messrs Mowlem & Co, were given the contract to make the approaches and pontoons.
 
1889, March 23rd: The Woolwich free ferry was opened by Lord Roseberry, Chairman of the London County Council.

The opening ceremony took place amidst quite extraordinary rejoicing. Woolwich was arrayed in flags and bunting. The streets were lined with volunteers of the 2nd Kent (Plumstead) Artillery, the 3rd Kent( Royal Arsenal) artillery and the 3rd Kent (Royal Arsenal) Rifles. In procession through the streets of Woolwich, preceded by mounted police, came the various trade and friendly associations, with their emblems and bands. Behind came the official party, driving in open carriages. This comprised Lord Rosebery and other members of the London County Council, the local member of Parliament for Woolwich and representatives of the local board of health, and the Plumstead district board.  On reaching the river, the party boarded the "Gordon", which took them across to North Woolwich, where they were met by another procession, which included in its ranks the steam fire engine from Beckton gas works, manned and decorated. Half an hour later, the party re-crossed the Thames, and Lord Rosebery, standing in his carriage before a crowd of 600 people, declared the ferry open, free for ever.  To round off the day's proceedings, there was a banquet for 200 at the Freemason's hall.

 

The Woolwich Ferry boats

The first ferries were 490 tons tons gross and had extreme width over the sponsons of 60 feet. They were 164 feet in length, with a draught of 4 feet. Soon after their construction, they were fitted with electric light throughout, a fact which was reported with great pride at the time. The ferries were driven by 2 pairs of diagonal surface condensing engines, each pair being connected to one paddle. They were capable of eight knots and licensed to carry 1000 passengers, with room for 15 to 20 vehicles.

Woolwich Ferry Duncan, 1889-1920s
Woolwich Ferry Duncan, 1889 - 1920s, seen in 1920

1920s: the original boats were replaced by four similar paddle steamers. They were built by J.Samuel White Ltd of Cowes and had a gross tonnage of 625 tons, 166 foot in length and 44 foot wide. Because of the limited depth of water at the pontoons, at low tide, the loaded draught of the boats had to be kept to about 5 feet. The engines were coke-fired by hand stoking to avoid excess smoke, and worked at a pressure of only 60 pounds per square inch.  Each ferry used about eight tons of coke a day.

Woolwich Ferry Gordon, 1923-1960s
Woolwich Ferry Gordon, 1923 – 1960s, seen in 1960

1926 -

At 5.42pm one June afternoon, the Squires had just arrived alongside the south pontoon, with 400 passengers on board. The rope had just been made fast, when the Mate (who was in charge of the ship) noticed a large steamer, steering an erratic course downriver towards the ferry boat.
He gave orders to let go the ropes and went astern at full speed. The five and a half thousand ton US ship "Coahama County" struck the Squires a crushing blow on the port bow and caused the ferry to rebound onto the pontoon doing considerable damage. In the event, no one was injured, but had the Squires been moored, she would almost certainly have sunk with great loss of lives. Damage to the pontoon caused the service to be closed for about six weeks.

1963: It was finally decided to replace the old ferries with modern "end-loading" vessels and to build new causeways to make loading and off-loading easier.  Three diesel engined ferry boats were constructed in 1963 by the Caleden shipbuilding and engineering company, Dundee.
Each was licensed to carry 500 passengers and 200 tons of vehicles. These vessels are 185.6 foot long and 61 foot wide, with a maximum draught of six feet. Each weighs 738.5 tons.
They are propelled by two pressure charged Mirlees National 500hp diesel engines , type R4/AU7M, which in turn drive two Voith Schneider Cycloidal propellers , type 20E (one at each end of the boat).  
John Burns, 1963 – date. (John Burns was the person who referred to the Thames as “Liquid history”)
James Newman, 1963 – date.
Ernest Bevin, 1963 - date.

Woolwich Ferry, Ernest Bevin, 1963-
Ernest Bevin, 1963 – date, seen in 1970s

 

1878: Princess Alice disaster, 600 fatalities

 

Woolwich Foot Tunnel

1908: when the ferries were getting very crowded, and when the railway ferry service closed down, the council decided to seek powers to build a foot tunnel.
 
1912: The foot tunnel was opened.

Inside the Woolwich Foot tunnel
Woolwich Foot tunnel

Tides this week
 
8 Frith photos of Woolwich

Map: Woolwich Reach

 
 
 
 
 
To Thames Barrier



Introduction
Estuary
PLA
QEII Br
Barrier
Tower Br
Custom Ho
London Br
; Frost Fairs
Cannon St Rb
The Great Stink
Southwark Br
Millenium Br
Blackfriars Rb
Blackfriars Br
Waterloo Br
Charing Cross Rb
Westminster Br
Lambeth Br
Vauxhall Br
Victoria Rb
Chelsea Br
Albert Br
Battersea Br
Battersea Rb
Wandsworth Br
Fulham Rb
Putney Br
Hammersmith Br
Barnes Rb
Chiswick Br
Kew Rb
Kew Br
RICHMOND
Twickenham Br
Richmond Rb
Richmond Br
TEDDINGTON
Kingston Rb
Kingston Br
Ditton Slip
Hampton Br
MOLESEY
SUNBURY
Walton Br
Desborough Cut
SHEPPERTON
Chertsey Br
CHERTSEY
M3 Br
Laleham Slip
PENTON HOOK
Staines Rb
Staines Br
Runnymede Br
BELL WEIR
Magna Carta Is
OLD WINDSOR
Albert Br
Datchet
Victoria Br
Black Potts Rb
ROMNEY
Eton
Windsor Br
Windsor Rb
Windsor Slip
Elizabeth Br
BOVENEY
Dorney Lake
York Cut
Summerleaze Fb
MonkeyIsland
New Thames Br
BRAY
Bray Slip
Maidenhead Rb
Maidenhead Br
Below Boulters
BOULTERS
Cliveden
Hedsor
COOKHAM
Cookham Slip
Cookham Br
BourneEnd RFb
Quarry Woods
A404 Br
MARLOW
Marlow Br
Bisham
TEMPLE
HURLEY
Medmenham
Culham Ct
Aston Slip
HAMBLEDEN
Temple Is
Fawley Ct
Remenham
Regatta
Phyllis Ct
Henley Slip
Leander
Red Lion
Henley Br
Angel on Br
Landing
Hobbs Boatyard
Hobbs Slipway
MARSH
Hennerton
Bolney
Wargrave
Shiplake Rb
R.Loddon
SHIPLAKE
Sonning Br
SONNING
Dreadnought
K&A Canal
CAVERSHAM
Reading Br
Caversham Br
Reading Slip
Purley
MAPLEDURHAM
Hardwick Ho
Whitchurch Br
WHITCHURCH
Hartswood Reach
Gatehampton Rb
Goring Gap
Goring Br
GORING
Swan
CLEEVE
Moulsford
Moulsford Rb
Papist Way Slip
Winterbrook Br
Wallingford Br
BENSON
Shillingford Br
R.Thame
DAYS
Burcot
Clifton Hampden
Clifton Church
Clifton H Br
Barley Mow
Long Wittenham
CLIFTON
Appleford Rb
Sutton Courtenay
Sutton Br
CULHAM
Culham Cut Fb
Abingdon Slip
Abingdon
Abingdon Br
ABINGDON
Nuneham Rb
Nuneham
Nuneham Park
Radley Boats
SANDFORD
Rose Island
Kennington Rb
Isis Br
Iffley Mill
IFFLEY
Oxford Rowing
Isis
Donnington Br
Riverside Slip
Boathouses
Punting
Lower Cherwell
Upper Cherwell
Islip
Head of River
Salters Steamers
Folly Br
Bacons Folly
Oxford Fb
Osney Fb
Weir stream
Osney Rb
Bullstake Stream
Osney Marina
OSNEY
Osney Br
Four Rivers
OLD RIVER
CANAL
Medley Weir Site
Medley Fb
Bossoms
Perch
Trout
GODSTOW
Godstow Nunnery
Godstow Br
Thames Br
KINGS
River Evenlode
EYNSHAM
Swinford Br
Oxford Cruisers
PINKHILL
Farmoor
Stanton Harcourt
Bablock Slip
Arks Weir Site
NORTHMOOR
Harts Fb
//Rose Revived
Newbridge
//Maybush
River Windrush
below Shifford
SHIFFORD
Shifford Fb
Tenfoot Fb
Trout Inn
Tadpole Br
RUSHEY
Old Mans Fb
RADCOT
Radcot Cradle Fb
Swan Inn
Radcot New Br
Radcot Old Br
GRAFTON
Eaton Hastings
Kelmscott
Eaton Fb
BUSCOT
Bloomers Hole Fb
Trout Inn
St Johns Br
ST JOHNS
Halfpenny Br
Marina Slip
LIMIT
Inglesham
Hannington Br
Kempsford
Castle Eaton Br
Marston Meysey
A419 Br
Cricklade
SOURCE?
THAMES HEAD
SEVEN SPRINGS